2016 CM Preliminary Climb Agenda

We have a big year coming up for Cascades Mountaineers! Below is the preliminary mountaineering schedule as well as training courses. All dates are subject to change of course; but this should give our members an idea of what to expect. We will post a more detailed prospectus on Meetup for each of these climbs as the dates get closer.

(This is by no means all of our outings for this year! We will have many other rock climbing, back country outings, hut trips, movie nights, etc.)


March 12th – 13th, 2016

Shastina Peak 12,330’

Cascade Gulch, Route 6

Climb dates: Saturday – Sunday

Day 1: Saturday

Drive to Mt. Shasta, hike in to Hidden Valley Camp

Day 2: Sunday

Gain Shastina Summit approx. 11am and begin descent

Party Size: 10-12



April 16th – 17th, 2016

Mt. Shasta (14,180ft)

Route: Casaval Ridge

Difficulty rating: 2

Climb Date: April 25

Day 1: Depart Bend at 6am, drive 4hrs to Shasta to begin climb. Climb appx 3,000ft to high camp

Day 2: Wake at 2am, begin climbing at 3:30. Appx 12-14hr day of continued strenuous climbing. Then return to Bend

Party size: 6



April 25th, 2016

Mt. Hood 11,239’ (3426 m)

Route: Wy’east (Cascade Volcanoes, page 139)

Difficulty rating: 2

Grade: II

Class: 34

Climb Date: April 25

Day: Monday

Start: 1:00 AM Wy’east Day Lodge, Timberline

Summit 8:00 AM

Return: Party size: 6


May 7-8

Middle Sister (10,056ft)

Route: Hayden Glacier and North Ridge

Grade: 2 Alpine Climb

Team Size: 5

Skill Level: Beginner to Intermediate

Physical Difficulty: Medium, 14 miles on skis or snowshoes with backpack

Skills Covered: Backcountry Navigation, Winter Camping, Roped Glacier Travel, Ice

Axe Arrest, Snow/Ice  Anchors, Running Belay, Leave No Trace Ethics.

Prerequisites: Must be Cascades Mountaineers Formal Club Member (www.orcm.org).

Prior experience with crampons and used ice axe

This climb qualifies for Bills Strycharz’s Mt Rainier prerequisites.



May 20th, 2016

Mt. Hood 11,239’ (3426 m)

Route: Wy’east (Cascade Volcanoes, page 139)

Difficulty rating: 2

Grade: II

Class: 34

Climb Date: May 20

Day: Friday

Start: 1:00 AM Wy’east Day Lodge, Timberline

Summit 8:00 AM

Return: 12:00 PM Wy’east Day Lodge, Timberline

Party size: 4



June 17th-18th

Mt. Adams 12,276’ (3742 m)

Route: NW Ridge (Cascade Volcanoes, page 122)

Difficulty rating: 2

Grade: II

Class: 3

Climb Dates: June 17th-18th

Days: Friday – Saturday

Day 1

Start: 10:00 AM from Killen Creek TH #113

Bivy at Mountaineers Camp

Day 2

Summit: 8:00 AM

Return: 6:00 PM Killen Creek

Party size: 4



June 23-26,2016

Mt Rainier (14,410ft)

Route: Disappointment Cleaver Route

Grade: 2 Alpine Climb

Team Size: 5

Skill Level: Intermediate with room for 1 strong beginner climber

Physical Difficulty: High 9,000’ Elevation Gain. Extreme weather. High Altitude. 50lb+ backpack.

Skills Covered: Endurance, Winter Camping, Roped Glacier Travel, Glacier Traverse,

Ice Axe Arrest, Leave No Trace Ethics

Prerequisites: Must be Cascades Mountaineers Formal Club Member (www.orcm.org).

Familiar with roped glacier travel. Must be in excellent physical condition. Must have adequate climbing resume.



July 7th-9th

Mt. Baker 10,781’ (3286 m)

Route: Easton Glacier (Cascade Volcanoes, page 56)

Difficulty rating: 1

Grade: II

Class: 2?

Climb Dates: July 7th-9th

Days: Thursday -Saturday

Day 1

Start: 9:00 AM from Scott Paul Trail parking lot

Bivy at Sandy Camp 5900’ (1798 m)

Day 2

Summit: 8:00 AM

Return: Sandy Camp

Day 3

Return: To trailhead

Party size: 6



July 30-31, 2016

Mt Adams (12,276ft)

Route: Mazama Glacier

Grade: 1 Alpine Climb

Team Size: 5

Skill Level: Beginner to Intermediate

Physical Difficulty: Medium, 12 Miles in backcountry. 7,000’ele. Gain

Skills Covered: Land Navigation, Roped Glacier Travel, Ice Axe Arrest, Leave No Trace Ethics.

Prerequisites: Must be Cascade Mountaineers Formal Club Member (www.orcm.org).

Should have worn crampons and used ice axe before.



August 3rd – 5th, 2016

Glacier Peak 10,541’ (3213 m)

Route: Frostbite Ridge (Cascade Volcanoes, page 74)

Difficulty rating: 2

Grade: II

Class: 4

Climb Dates: August 3rd – 5th

Days: Wednesday – Friday

Day 1

Start: 9:00 AM from White Chuck TH #643

Bivy on Kennedy Ridge ~

5900’ (1798 m)

Day 2

Summit: 8:00 AM

Return: Kennedy Ridge Bivy

Day 3

Return: To trailhead

Party size: 4


Upcoming Alpine Climbing Training: March – April, August – September

Actual dates, number of training sessions and trip descriptions will be added at a later time

Mid-March through mid-April
Crevasse Rescue Mt. Hood, Whiteriver area or Hayrick Butte
Glacier Ice Course Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier

Alpine Rock Climbing Chair & Bryant Peaks
Possible 5 day trip, end of August first of September

Mountain Lakes Wilderness


Mountain Lakes Wilderness boundary sign

The Mountain Lakes Wilderness is located in the Southern Oregon Cascades between Klamath Lake and Lake of the Woods. It is the only square wilderness area, on the small side, but filled with four old volcanoes that have been carved up by glaciers. There are a number of lovely lakes in the wilderness area, connected by a loop trail. We hiked in on the Varney Creek trail which, not surprisingly, follows Varney Creek up a glacial valley. The trailhead is about a 3 hour drive from Bend.

Brandon in camp at Lake Harriette

We left Bend at 8:00 a.m. on Friday, October 9. Six were signed up, but two were injured on mountain bikes just before the trip and had to cancel. Mike Caccavano, Sally West, Brandon Simonds and Karen Bonner hit the trail after eating lunch at the trailhead. The 6.6 mile hike to Lake Harriette was pretty mellow for most of the way getting a little steep just before the lake for an elevation gain of about 1,200 feet. We found a good campsite near the lake and well off the trail. With temperatures in the low 70’s, we decided to jump in the lake after setting up camp, but didn’t last long because the water was frigid.

After dinner and a nice campfire, we hit the sack under clear, starry skies. In the morning we waited for Brian Keith who was planning to join us, but we missed him. We Sally, Karen, Brian and Brandon on the summit of Aspen Butteheaded up to Aspen Butte late in the morning. From Lake Harriette the hike is about 2.5 miles and 1,500 feet to the 8,208 foot summit of Aspen Butte. There is a maintained trail for about 2/3 of that distance and a climber’s path that ascends the north ridge. Views from the summit of the old volcano were great with Mt. Mcloughlin looming to the west, Mt. Shasta in the distance to the south, Klamath Lake nearby to the east and the Crater Lake rim to the north.

At the summit, we met up with Brian Keith, who hiked up to the top with a full pack. As forecast, the wind was fairly strong on the summit although it was mostly sunny. We ate lKaren and Brandon on the summit of Mt. Carmineunch on top and headed down. Brandon wanted to add another summit to our accomplishments so on the way down after dropping 800 feet to a saddle we bushwacked up the southwest ridge of Mt. Carmine. Mt. Carmine, at 7,895 feet, is a spur of Aspen Butte separated by a glacial cirque. The mountain is a tease, with several false summits and views that were not quite as good as Aspen Butte.

Back in camp after 7.5 miles of hiking, it was windy and the clouds were thickening. We got a little rain during the night, then the wind calmed and the drops froze to our rain fly. The hike out was enjoyable in cool, sunny weather. We enjoyed some good, greasy burgers at the Diamond Lake junction to wrap up another great Cascades Mountaineers outing.

Mount Jefferson Trip Report

Appreciation for the journey: the Jefferson Park Glacier Route

June 5-7, 2015

Submitted by Frank Florence

MJ 1

Mountaineering aspirations can be stated in terms of summits (I want to do Hood) and in terms of routes (I want to do the Leuthold Couloir.) In the latter case, the focus is on the character of the climbing experience we hope to have. That’s what appeals to me about the Jefferson Park Glacier route on the north side of Mount Jefferson. If you hike in to Jefferson Park, or ski at Timberline and look south, you view the imposing north face of the peak and the steep glacier that drapes down that side. It’s complex topography. Rock pinnacles line the summit ridges and the glacier drops away first between, then beneath them. The weight of all that ice tears the glacier apart and large crevasses form at its top. The highest of these, the bergschrund, is a huge moat that spans nearly the full width of the ice sheet between two prominent horns. Gaining the summit ridge from this side requires navigating through this terrain. A blunt, direct line approach won’t get you up; the climber needs to read the glacier’s condition and puzzle out the twists and turns of safe passage to the top.

Steve hiking in  Steve hiking in.

Four of us set out to do that on the first weekend of June this year, Brian Risch, Steve Huffman, Brian Tryba, and me. Our approach hike took us up to about 6,700’ on a glacial moraine. The last snow fields we crossed before making camp were thick slush. A warm air mass, the start of what turned out to be a heat wave, had moved in, causing a steady breeze and rising temperatures. Those are tough conditions for an icy route. We thought we’d head off problems by rising at 3 AM and taking advantage of cool night time conditions.

Brian T leading  Brian T on leadMJ 3Frank following

We were overly optimistic. When we got up temperatures had not cooled anywhere close to freezing and the snow was still soft. We took off in the dark, anticipating that higher up we’d find firm snow. But as the skies lightened and we continued our steady march up the lower glacier, temperatures rose with us and we never found firm conditions. We roped up as we transitioned from peripheral snowfields to the glacier proper. The center of the ice field had open crevasses and we made our way up climber’s left until high on the face. Then we cut right, weaving through snow ramps separated by crevasses.   Brian Tryba and I swapped leads as we crossed snow bridges and climbed up over icy steps we made our way up to the bergschrund. On its left side an avalanche cone had formed, composed of ice that had been peeling off the rime-covered Molar’s Tooth, the large pinnacle above. I led up this gift into a scoured runnel, then out right onto the steep upper face. Alternating between kicking steps and front pointing, we worked our way up onto the top of the ridge. Brian led the final pitch and as I followed, I was glad with our success so far. We’d been challenged to get up the glacier safely and we’d done it.

MJ 4Rotten rime on the crest

We were now on the “knife-edged ridge,” a technical traverse that heads over to the North Ridge route. We could see the way from there to the summit, but the problem was to get to onto that ridge. Blocking our way, and covering portions of the traverse, were vertical masses of rotten rime, now all thawing. I went a short way out on our ridge to get a better view of any options. It was clear the standard route was out of condition. Ice covered some of the rocky faces we’d intended to move across but the ice itself was weak and breaking apart. We needed to go another way or else go down. Reversing our ascent route was dangerous; it was now late morning and the warm conditions meant rock and ice would be falling from the pinnacles we’d passed under. Descent down the drainage to the right would entail an arduous cross-country effort to return to camp, likely involving a bivouac.   We decided to cross the upper west face snow to get to the summit and the safe descent along the Southeast Ridge on its opposite side.

MJ 6Conditions on the traverse

That turned out to be more of a problem than we’d anticipated. It took three rappels followed by climbing across steep snowfields before we stood under the summit pinnacle. It was now late, well into the afternoon. We were kicking into high-angle slush and rock fall and ice blocks tumbled down across the line of the traverse we’d avoided. We still needed to work our way around the summit to get onto our descent line. With only a couple of hundred feet between us and the top of the mountain, we let it go and put our effort into finishing the day safely and getting back to camp before dark.

Frank on rappelFrank on rappel

Our descent was laborious, but less of a problem than what we’d dealt with so far. Our route brought us down onto the broad Whitewater Glacier, where only a few, easily avoided crevasses had begun to open. We made the long walk back north, tired but entertained by views of Hood, Adams, St. Helens and, in the distance, Rainier. By the time we dropped over the last crest and went down to camp we had made a complete circumnavigation of the mountain.

Did we climb Jefferson? Well, we didn’t stand on the summit, so, no, we didn’t. But was the trip a failure? The answer to that is no as well. We did ascend the Jefferson Park Glacier, in itself a respectable goal. We had the chance to complete a good deal of technical snow and ice climbing under demanding alpine conditions. We had to adjust to rapidly deteriorating conditions as a record-breaking heat wave moved in. And we all got back to camp in one piece and before dark. The trip tested us and we all found the determination to push through. There’s ample success in that.

N Ridge and summit


Photos courtesy of Steve Huffman and Brian Risch



Tumalo Mountain Overnighter

Membership is required.  Go to http://www.orcm.org/membership.html to join.

Camp on Tumalo 2012

Camp on Tumalo 2012

Outing Coordinators: Mike Caccavano, Bruce Lakin
Date: January 10-11, 2015
Logistics: Meet at Mt Bachelor park and ride lot on Simpson Ave at 7:30 am. From there we will carpool up to Dutchman Flat Sno-Park or Mt. Bachelor Sunrise parking lot. We will depart Dutchman Flat Sno Park at 8:30 am and head up the south side of Tumalo.  Camp will be on the ridge on the west side of the bowl.
Elevation Gain: Approx. 1400′,1.5 miles
Outing Description: Overnight trip to practice snow camping, backcountry skiing and snowshoe skills, test gear, and have fun in the snow. We’ll also practice avalanche skills.
Equipment and Clothing: Winter camping gear including a winter sleeping bag, a good pad, 4-season tent (we’ll share), warm clothes, stove, food, ten essentials (a reommended gear list will be provided to attendees). Bring shovel, probe and avalanche beacon if you plan to ski and practice avalanche skills.
Skills, Experience and Fitness Level: The trip in is fairly short and moderately steep. There are several options for skiing.
Participation and RSVP Requirements: This trip is limited to 16. Sign up at Meetup.com, email or call Mike Caccavano, mikecaccavano@gmail.com 503 338-8244

January 14, 2015 Meeting

Our first club meeting for 2015 will be a night ski/snowshoe to Meissner Shelter.  In case you have not been there, Meissner Sno-park is 13 miles from Bend on the Cascade Lakes Highway. It is the first sno-park on the right. Here’s a link to the sno-park map: http://www.meissnernordic.org/wp-content/uploads/2010-meissner-trail-map1.pdf

If you want to carpool, meet at 6:00 p.m. at the Mt. Bachelor Park and Ride on Columbia north of Simpson Drive.  You can also head right up to the sno-park or shelter.  We’ll gather around the stove in the shelter.  The moon is not cooperating so be sure to bring a headlamp and warm clothes.  The trail to the shelter is about 1.5 miles with moderate slopes if you take the Tangent and Manzanita trails.  If you are driving to the sno-park, don’t forget your sno-park permit.


Event: Tam McArthur Yurts

Date(s): February 11 to February 13

Start / Return Time and Location: Snowmobile to the hut from the Upper Three Creeks Snow Park at 9AM on Wednesday. Return from the Yurt by snowmobile on Friday afternoon. We’ll arrange a car pool from Bend area.

Description of Event: This event is to stay at one of the yurts and ski tour the incredible terrain of the Tam McArthur Rim area. The yurt is wood heated and has six bunks, full kitchen, dining & lounge areas.
Tam McArthur Rim rises up 1,500 feet directly from the yurts and stretches for two miles, providing an incredible variety of terrain including open bowls, treed glades, couloirs, gentle meadows, and steep chutes.

Special Conditions: The midweek rentals and snowmobile transportation will cost $140 per guest. Your reservation is will be guaranteed by an initial deposit of $70 payable. The remaining final payment of $70 is due by Jan. 11th. Refunds for cancelations will depend upon whether your reservation is filled by someone else.

Equipment & Clothing Needs: Beacon, shovel and probe and the ten essentials are required. The confirmation letter from Three Sisters Backcountry guides will be provided to each registrant which provides greater detail.

Skills, Experience and Fitness Level Needed:  Participants should be familiar with the use of beacon, shovel and probe for rescues and ski at an intermediate level. Skiers must be comfortable traveling in avalanche terrain and touring for a full day.

Maximum Number of Participants: 6

Coordinator: Bruce Lakin

Contact Info:  Blakin49@hotmail.com

Middle Sister via East Ridge

Cascades Mountaineers Club Outing:  Middle Sister via East Ridge

(membership required to participate)

Outing Coordinator: Marcus Muffley

Date: October 24th and 25th (Friday/Saturday)

Start: Pole Creek Trailhead

Elevation Gain/Loss: Day 1 = 1657 gain / Day 2 = 3078ft gain, 4735 descent

Outing Description: We will meet at 10:30am at Sisters Coffee Co. in Sisters (273 W Hood Ave, Sisters, OR 97759) and leave by 10:45. From there we will drive to Pole Creek TH for the ~7 mile/1657ft gain hike into Camp Lake where we will set up camp. We will leave for the summit no later than 7:30am. This ascent is less than 2 miles but is a 3,000ft gain. It is steep and slow going so it may take ~5hrs up and back down to camp. Depending on pace we should have enough time to take a good break before we leave back to the trailhead.

Equipment & Clothing Needs: I think the challenge here will be clothing. It is predicted to be about 50deg (high of 65) when we leave the trailhead and the low may be about at the freezing level overnight. Summer clothing and cold weather clothing will likely be needed. Slight chance of precip on Saturday, but we should miss it if the forecast holds. The 10 essentials, layers of non-cotton clothing, waterproof shell and pants, sunscreen, GPS, cell phone, etc. This will be a non-technical climb so we will not need ropes/harnesses etc. 3 season tent and a good sleeping bag/pad will be needed.

Skills, Experience and Fitness Level Needed: Safety is paramount and all climbers must be prepared for the unexpected situation and weather. Please have the appropriate knowledge, experience, gear and stamina to climb.

Maximum Number of Participants:  10 climbers

Please email Marcus at Marcus.Muffley@gmail.com or Call/text 1.541.633.3000

I will send out the first group email on Monday afternoon to figure out carpooling to Sisters and group gear.


Bend Rock Gym Social Climbs

Date: October 16th & November 20th
Time: 4:30 to 7:00PM

Description: We have many members who enjoy climbing regularly at the gym. This event will be a social climb with members of the club. But, club membership is not required to participate. Gym membership is not required to participate either. The rate to climb is $12.

We’ll climb a variety of different routes and practice a variety of skills. There will be no formal instruction. The Bend Rock Gym will certify you to belay top rope and a lead climber. Dinner and beers may follow.

Equipment / Clothing Needs: harness, carabiners (2), climbing shoes

Location: Bend Rock Gym – 1182 SE Centennial Ct. Bend, OR 97702

Please keep in mind that SE Reed Market Rd is closed to two way traffic. You’ll need to come in from SE Wilson Ave. Feel free to give BRG a call at (541) 388-6764 with any questions. BRG requires that all climbers complete a liability form. This form is available on their website and can be completed ahead of time.

RSVP/Max Participants: This event is limited to 12 participants including the coordinator. An RSVP by no later than Oct. 14th is requested.

More Information: blakin49@hotmail.com (970) 596-9785